Frequently Asked
Questions
Top 10 Questions
& Answers
Question: What
kind of Pine do I see dying around the landscape?
Answer:
Mostly Scotch Pine have been affected by a disease called
pine wilt in eastern and south central parts of Nebraska.
However, there have been some reported cases of the Austrian
Pine being affected also. Most
native pine species, as well as other conifers like spruces and
firs are resistant to the disease and are only rarely killed by
it. Pine wilt is caused
by the pinewood nematode, a microscopic worm-like organism that
lives in the wood of declining and dying pines and other
conifers. The tree typically dies within two to three months after becoming
infested by the nematode. The
first visible symptoms of pine wilt are the needles turning
grayish green then straw brown in color, and the needles may
remain on the tree for a year or more.
Some individual branches may show the symptoms first, or
the tree may change color uniformly, but in either case the tree
usually turns completely brown within just a few weeks.
If branches are cut from the tree, the cut surfaces are
typically not sticky to the touch and may feel dry. Samples of
wood from a diseased tree that are checked by a diagnostician
will usually contain large numbers of nematodes.
Additional information can be found our website.
Question: What kind of
conifers should I plant for a windbreak?
Answer:
Austrian Pine
is a native plant that tolerates cold, heat and adverse weather
in Nebraska. The dark green, heavy, long needles have a strong
‘Northwood’s’ fragrance. They are a vigorous grower
reaching heights of 50-60’.
Limber Pine is
a slow irregularly growing native pine that has extremely cold
and drought tolerant characteristics.
It reaches a height of 30-35’.
Colorado Spruce
is noted for it’s hardiness and attractive bluish or green or
blue/green color. The
Spruce likes fully exposed, well-drained locations.
There are several hybrid Spruce, such as Bakeri
Spruce, Fat Albert Spruce and Hoopsi Spruce that would do
well in windbreaks as well. A
full list of conifer species that we grow can be found here on our
web site.
Question:
When is the best time to plant trees, Spring or Fall?
Answer:
Either time is a good time to plant. We can only dig a deciduous tree, (B&B) when it is dormant,
(before the trees leaf out in the Spring or after they turn
color in the Fall) As long as they are dug in the appropriate
time, they can be planted at any time.
Container trees are another source that can be planted at
any time because their roots are already contained and won’t
be disturbed by planting.
Question: How much should I
water my newly planted tree?
Answer:
Good common sense is needed to determine how much extra
water your tree will need. A
rule of thumb is 1” a week. It is possible to kill a tree by watering it too much and
robbing it of oxygen as well as not giving it enough to survive.
Automatic sprinklers can sometimes give a tree too much
water, planting it 6” higher than the existing ground level to
let it breathe is a good idea. It is difficult to plant a tree too high; it is always
better to err on the side of planting high. Purchase a moisture meter, a simple device that you can stick
into the ground and it will detect the amount of moisture 6”
in the ground. If this is
not available, a long screwdriver can be inserted and just like
a cake, if it comes out wet, it is wet enough and if it comes
out dry, it needs water and your cake is done!
Question: Should I
take off the wire basket when planting my tree.
Answer:
Some experts will tell you that the wire basket should be
removed. We have
found after many, many years of experience that the roots of a
B&B tree readily grow through the wide spaces in a wire
basket and over the course of only a few months, the wire starts
to rust and within a year or two has completed rusted.
By removing the basket before planting, the roots and
entire tree are disturbed and undue stress is caused to the tree.
Question:
Should I stake my tree?
Answer:
The primary purpose of staking trees is to prevent the
wind from damaging the root system on a new tree before enough
new root development has occurred to enable the tree to properly
anchor itself in the ground.
Less potential damage is likely to be done to container
grown trees because in the most severe of winds the root bal
will typically move intact with the tree.
Balled and burlapped (B&B) trees are particularly
prone to wind damage and should generally be staked, Exceptions
are when they are planted in a very sheltered location or when a
tree is planted in a clump form. The stakes should remain on until at least early summer
after one full growing season. The guy wires should be checked
frequently and loosened to avoid the trunk growing around them.
Staking should be loose enough for the tree to move slightly.
Question:
When should I prune my trees?
Answer: Some trees such as maples and birches will ‘bleed’ or
lose sap from pruning cuts made early in the spring.
This bleeding does not hurt the tree, and the loss of sap
is inconsequential. With
a few exceptions, most routine pruning can be done any time of
year. The worst time is just as the tree has leafed out in the spring.
The best time is when the tree is dormant.
To maximize flowering for the following year, prune just
after bloom this year.
Question: What are some good
varieties of trees for Fall color?
Answer:
Autumn Purple Ash turns purple or mahogany in the Fall.
Aspen and Birch will turn a bright yellow.
Locust and Linden will turn yellow.
Amur Maple has bright scarlet Fall foliage.
Embers, Sun Valley, Red Sunsets and Autumn Blaze Maples will
have orange-red colors in the Fall.
Emerald Lustre Maples turn yellow.
Sugar Maples will turn an excellent orange, red and
yellow color in the Fall.
Red Oaks turn a deep red in late Fall.
Chanticleer Pear will turn reddish-purple in late November.
Question:
When can I come to Oak Prairie Nursery to look at trees?
Answer:
Our normal hours are 8:00 am to 4:00 pm Monday through
Friday, Saturday mornings in season and after hour visits can be
made by appointment.
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